Categories
Somalia and Eritrea

Rain

I awaken to grey sky and rain, not quite what I expected for the horn of Africa. The forecast is for a class 1 tropical storm. We leave Hargeisa after breakfast for the 3 hour drive to the coastal port city of Berbera. Overnight rains have transformed dips in the road into river crossings that our tough, colourful bus negotiates with ease. Halfway along we turn left onto a dirt 4 WD track that tests our driver and vehicle a bit more but both pass with ease.
Our destination is Laas Geel caves. Situated in the middle of nowhere this stunning collection of rock art was only discovered by archaeologists in 2002. Dated to between 5000 and 9000 years ago it features some of the most vibrant rock art that I have ever seen. The dominant theme and the most beautiful feature cattle but there is man, giraffe and wolves here. A short but steep climb takes me to the first of 6 caves. These are not fully enclosed caves rather crevices in the rock much like the aboriginal paintings in northern Australia. They have not undergone restoration so the colours and clarity are all the more impressive. Worryingly, because of the history of war and the fact that Somaliland is a self proclaimed but not recognised independent state, it has no UNESCO world heritage protection. the For an archaeology enthusiast like me this was easily the highlight of my trip here.

Site of Las Geel caves
Site of Las Geel caves
Bull with human underneath. Note the elaborate neck decoration
Bull with human underneath. Note the elaborate neck decoration
Cow notice the non anatomical position of the udders
Cow notice the non anatomical position of the udders
Again bull with man underneath
Again bull with man underneath
Giraffe, less impressive but still very clearly visible
Giraffe, less impressive but still very clearly visible
Cow grazing, man beneath
Cow grazing, man beneath
Cattle mating
Cattle mating
Herd of bulls
Herd of bulls

Our drive onward to Berbera was marred by getting bogged in the soft sand and having to dig and push the bus out.

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At Berbera leaden clouds and rain force a cancellation of our planned beach afternoon.

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