Ten years ago I first investigated the possibility of travelling though the central Asian republics affectionately known as the “Stans” to back packers. I purchased the Lonely Planet guide at that time and this out of date tome has sat beside my bed for the last six months. As with so many things in life, chance plays such a large part and as I feel out of love with my initial travel idea of walking the Camino Santiago this year, the accidental conjunction of having 6 weeks holiday and the time of year led me to resuscitate my former plans.
The Stans comprise the 5 countries that were the southernmost outposts of the former Soviet Union. Their people are vastly different to the rest of Russia. Asian and Muslim they had little in common with their former masters. Rich with oil and gas deposits, they were, though, prized possessions of the Soviet empire. They were also the springboards for the ill fated Russian invasion and occupation of Afghanistan in the 1980s.
After the collapse of the Soviet Union these countries were unpreparedly abandoned and left to become independent nations. Knowing nothing other than totalitarianism, each country threw up dictatorships as their governments and this more or less prevails to this day. Some experienced internal unrest with opposition groups and armed warfare but, with the obvious exception of Afghanistan all is peaceful and safe for travellers in the Stans today.
So why the Stans? A remote former Russian outpost, surrounded by troubled hotspots such as Iran, Afghanistan and Pakistan as a holiday destination? Have I finally gone completely mad? I guess in a week’s time, when I fly into my first Stan I, and you my faithful readers will know. Suffice it to say that this is an area rich in history. Alexander the Great came through here in 300BC and built massive cities here the ruins of which, despite the predations of a rampant, marauding Genghis Khan still survive. In the middle ages the Silk road, the trade route between Europe and China snaked through this area leaving flourishing cities such as Khiva, Bukhara and Samarkand which today are absolute tourist gems. Then there are my favourites, massive mountains and much of my time will be spent revelling in the mountain scenery of the 7000 metre peaks, glaciers and lakes of the Pamirs and Tian Shan ranges. To wrap it up I will finish in Astana, the new capitol of oil rich Kazakhstan with the crazy ultramodern buildings that have earned it the nickname the “Dubai of Central Asia”
For the record I will be starting in Turkmenistan and going though Uzbekistan, Afghanistan, Tajikistan, Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. Internet availability is likely to be fairly lean so I apologise in advance if the emails are a bit spasmodic. Also as I am not taking a laptop there may not be any photos attached but I will try and keep the communications as interesting as possible. In the meanwhile I am packed and ready to go. Roll on Friday!