Behind Khorog Murghab is the second “city” of the Pamirs. Unlike Khorog there is not a single blade of grass or any other greenery or vegetation here. This is a depressing town of ugly squat scruffy mud brick buildings. Many have been whitewashed in the past, probably in Soviet times when this poor area fared well in the attempt to equalise the living standards throughout the USSR. Since the collapse of the soviet empire, Murghab has reverted to its desperately poor status.
Our travelling today matched the lowered mood a low key day up the Madian Valley. Our first stop was at the hotsprings. A landslide 2 years ago wiped out the road so the last 2km was a walk and a creek rock hop to what is a set of derelict buildings. The spring “bath” is functional but without human input to mix the hot spring with cold river water the bath water is unbearably scalding.
After a lengthy wait for lunch we visit 3000 year old petroglyphs only to find the addition of 20th century graffiti marring the whole experience. The mindless cultural vandalism leaves us feeling angry.
Murghab