Growing up in the 1960s and 70s Baghdad conjured up romantic and exotic images. Flying carpets, Ali Baba, Aladdin even Jeannie from the show “I dream of Jeannie”. It was the stereotypical Middle Eastern destination. Fast forward 50 years and the mention of Baghdad now evokes images of war, Saddam Hussein, terrorism and ISIS. How times change!
I was booked to go on this tour in 2019. I had bookended my time in Iraq with a week in Moldova in eastern Europe before and Jordan after. On my flight over my time in transit in Dubai had TV screens full of civil unrest and army retaliation in Baghdad with scores of casualties. The writing was on the wall and while in Moldova the email came from the tour company to say that the tour had been cancelled on security grounds. Ironically my change to go to Lebanon saw me immersed in their own violent demonstrations with road blocks, curfews, fire in the streets!
COVID and family illness means it is now a long 2 years and 9 months since I even set foot in an airport. The travel “muscle memory” has atrophied somewhat but I am now excited and ready to do what I do do best, travel! I can’t wait to hit the streets of Baghdad, the noisy cars, the smell of old car petrol fumes, wood fires, decepit buildings and people, strange, different people who despite their differences share the same common humanity with me.
Welcome back to those who have shared my travel journeys in the past. I know what you are all thinking, Iraq, WTF??? Nonetheless this is a fascinating country. The history goes back 6000 years and rivals Egypt! At times it was the most powerful empire in the world. It developed the first written language and spawne the Sumerians, Assyrians and great emperors such as Nebuchadnezzenar. One of the 7 wonders of the ancient world, the Hanging gardens of Babylon is here. Moving forward it is the site if the battle that spawned the split in Islam between Sunni and Shia and one of the holiest pilgrimage sites for Shia Muslims Karbala is here.
Enough for now. I am sipping a port in the Emirates lounge and enjoying my last alcoholic drink for a while. Wherever I get wifi I will endeavour to keep you all updated and I hope that my pictures will not disappoint. Let the adventure begin!
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