Wandering around it was a weird vibe, as if some contagion had taken the rest of the human race and I alone survived. All around was like a massive movie set but no life around. The omnipresent heat is stifling but as part of the craziness there are air vents in the pavement pumping out cool airconditioned air. In the distance I hear a tap tap of a worker’s hammer and further away the rat tat tat of a jackhammer the only other signs of life working in the last minute bid for readiness for the big event. Fast forward a month and this place will be a heaving mass of sweaty, partying humanity, now it is a ghost town. I am wandering around Katara the cultural cetre of Doha, Qatar.
The greatest show on earth, the quadriennial FIFA football world cup, watched by billions, is 3 weeks away and it is in Qatar in 2022. All around the city the last finshing touches are happening and looking at some of the construction works it will be touch and go to finish on time.
Around the waterfront winds the palm lined corniche with spectacular views across the water to the Doha skyscraper skyline.
I walk the length of the corniche as the sun sets and the place comes alive. I am approached by a dhow boat captain offering to take me for a cruise. He is ready to depart with a handful of other passengers already aboard so on the spur of the moment I jump in.
With age I have discovered that just as important as the final destination is the journey and I am determined to extract every last pleasure out of it. Further down the waterfront is a massive replica of the world cup. There is a stage with music, dancing and flag waving albeit on a small scale so far.
Qatari society is run along the same lines as all of the gulf states. A tiny minority are local and hold all the oil wealth. Over 90% of the population are expats from poorer countries in the world looking to make some tax free money to send home. The world cup has been a two edged sword for Qatar. It will certainly gain international publicity for the middle east. It has also shone a light on the system of human trafficking that in some instances with construction workers from the poorest nations was tantamount to slavery. Similarly repressive muslim laws in areas such as treatment of homosexuality has received media attention. I feel that for the average soccer punter, though, human rights will not be uppermost in their minds. The biggest issue for them will be alcohol. At present only high end hotels serve alcohol and the cheapest stubbie of beer is an insane $25 Aud!! Pretty difficult to party hard at that cost! I understand that there will be beer tents at stadiums but I wonder what they will charge.
Nonetheless this is a pleasant city with enough sights to fill in a day.
This is the last post for this trip and I thank my faithful readers. I hope you have enjoyed what you have seen and read. The next trip will be to see orangutans and sun bears in Borneo at Christmas. I will be joined by my life partner and only love, Suzanne. Catch up with you all then.