The pretour email arrives and there is the instruction to stay with the tour group at all times. Due to the security situation avoid crowds, demonstrations and no wandering the streets alone. I email the tour leader back to point out that I will be in Tehran 1 day beforehand and planned to go sightseeing by myself. His instruction was to blend in but not like Dr Marcus Brody (from the Indiana Jones movies).
My flight in the previous night was an adventure in itself. At the departure gate in Dubai there were only around 50 passengers on a large Boeing 777 aircraft. As the plane touched down at Tehran, all the women immediately donned headscarfs. Immigration seemed to be progressing smoothly until I got to present my papers. I was ordered back down along empty corridor to be accosted by a young lady demanding to see my travel insurance. Never been asked for that before! Reading it and finding no mention of Iran I am forced to take out Iranian travel insurance for $13. Then off to the visa desk to pay what was initially quoted at $80 and then quickly doubled in price. Feeling totally ripped off and helpless I get through immigaration. As I approach the luggage belt I see my pack as the final item and it is being picked up by someone who at my approach hands it over.
Next step is get local currency for a cab ride into town. The sign to currency exchange takes me upstairs. As Iran is under continuing sanctions ATMs do not accept foreign credit cards. At the exchange kiosk the first lady looks me in the eye, shakes her head and looks down at her paperwork. The next lady does the same. In trouble I enter negotiations with a tout to change money on the blackmarket. At a major disadvantage I bargain him up from 40 to 43 million rials, for $100 US and am handed a large wad of local currency each with enough zeros on it to make one cross eyed but most next to worthless. I hoped that I had legitimate currency in my hands.
The taxi stand gave me a chit for 4 million rials to give to the driver for the 100 minute trip into town. The night was capped off by being dropped off at the wrong destination and on my arrival the hotel having no record of my booking.
I hit the ground running next morning and start my sightseeing day at the Golestan Palace. Dating back to the 16th century this was known as the Hunting Palace was was the main residence of the rulers of Persia until the 20th century. It is here that I get my first taste of Persian art and architecture. The fusion of many styles and outside influences is beautifully stimulating. This place truly is a melting pot of ideas and cultures and is truly the “middle east”.
The remainder of my first day was spent at the Shahs palace
and the national museum which has some amazing archeological artefacts.
