Our last day following the Lake Kivu shoreline takes us to Rubavu. This is where the border with the much blighted Goma is and in essence it is one big city cut in two with the international border the eastern side is Rubavu and the west is Goma in the DRC.


Along the way we stop at hot springs bubbling out of the ground a byproduct of an active volcano n the DRC side. The water bubbling out of the ground is 75C and they have constructed a very basic shallow pond to sit in. Unfortunately it has not occurred to them to let some of the lake water to enter the pond and lower the temperature. At first I only dunk my feet in.I am persuaded to have a massage and mud treatment of my legs which evolved into upper body and shoulders and eventually gingerly immersing myself up to neck deep in the 40C water.






Lunch is on the “beach” at Rubavu before we head inland to Musanze. Musanze was known as Ruhengeri when I was here in 2009. A year later as part of the process of trying to heal the wounds of 1994 genocide all of the major towns and provinces were renamed as if to reinforce the break from the brutal past. In 2009 Anthony and I were here to see gorillas as this is probably the best organised place to experience this. We had a amazing experience and lots of great photos so I eschew the offer to go again (at the eye watering price of $1100 US).





