Saudi Arabia only opened up to tourism in 2019. No tourist visas existed before that time. In the northwest of Saudia lies a region characterised by desert and striking massive outcrops. The town of Alula at that time comprised a new town and a fenced off old town near the oasis that dated back to the 13th century. Since 2021 a partnership between UNESCO and the Saudi Royal Commission for Al Ula has extensively restored it into an attractive tourist hub which is the masterplan for the whole region.
The old town is a tourist gem. Craft shops and cafes abound. Getting lost in narrow winding covered alleyways is a pleasure. Across the road is the oasis and an extensive series of mud brick foundations of the original old town. The town was a stop for caravans on the incense trail taking frankincense and myrrh from south 2000km to the Mediterranean in the north.
The Nabatean people based in southern Jordan a stones throw away from modern day AlUla took full advantage of the incense trade and established Petra in Jordan and Hegra near AlUla in the 1st century AD. Here as in Petra they carved massive tombs into the region’s sandstone using only the most basic tools namely a hammer and chisel. There are 141 tombs in Hegra. Eventually the overland incense trail was replaced by shipping through the Red Sea.
As the sun was setting we drove up to the Harrat viewpoint on a flat top rock. The drive up was on a steep vertiginous switch back road. At the top the carpark sported 50 Pagani Raduno cars, something I knew nothing of but the cars are worth around $2 million each. Their mega rich owners from all around the world meet annually for a rally. This year it is in the Saudi desert.
The day ends with sunset at the whimsically named Elephant rock. You can see why.
