Sipping fragrant clove tea in the shade opposite the Blue Nile. It is a toasty 37C at this “pop up” tea stall by the roadside. Next to me in a wheel chair i a one legged man. I look at the remaining leg fleetingly, oh he seems to have a moon boot on that one as well. Slowly my mind processes the African reality and I glance back to confirm my diagnosis. There is no orthotic on his leg the massive leg is a result of an impressive case of elephantiasis. The reason for this colorful name for the parasite infestation of his lymphatics is never better illustrated than by looking at massive elephant like leg on this man.
The women of Sudan, in accordance with Sharia law are veiled.Interestingly enough most wear hijabs These sit loosely over their heads, not covering their happy African faces but rather function as a colourful fashion accessory. A smaller minority wear the the more conservative niqabs which has them veiled in black with only the eyes uncovered. If they are also wearing glasses then the cover seems total and the look is positively alien!
All around us at the tea stall sit men quietly whittling away lumps of wood into small pieces. Stalls all around sell the bagged up kindling along with fragrant acacia and sandalwood to women for the unique ritual of dukhan. It is a tradition that goes back generations and is uniquely Sudanese. Women start on their wedding day and will continue it regularly throughout their married life. The wood is taken home and lit until it is hot coal. The fragrances are put on top and the smouldering coals are put on the ground. She undresses, wraps a blanket around herself an sits over the coals literally smoking her skin. The benefits are said to include fragrance, tanning of the skin and, supposedly, tightening of the vagina to enhance their husband’s sexual pleasure.
Unlike the west, this is a society where open expressions of sexuality are banned.Media depictions of sexuality or the exposed female form are similarly banned. Even the laundry service at our hotel states “We apologize for not accepting ladie’s (sic) underwear” Presumably dirty knickers must titillate here! Imagine the excitement then when a Sudanese man comes home and smells smoke on his wife’s skin!
Come on baby light my fire!