Isfahan

Leaving Tehran I am leaving behind the politics, war and terror of the Iranian past. Bright rays of sunshine flood into our spacious bus and the suburbs of Tehran and snowcapped mountains give way to desolate scrubby desert. Unsurprisingly it is totally reminiscent of my travels through southern Iraq last year. I am travelling to visit some of the magnificent sights of Persian history, a rich culture that goes back to the times of the Roman empire.

We arrive inthe world heritage listed city of Isfahan after dark and take in the beautifully illuminated Khaju bridge spanning the Zayandehrud River.

Built 400 years ago it houses a central Royal pavilion, an observation point for the Shah and the royal family. When river levels were high the bridge  doubled as  weir. I was up early the next morning to walk back down there and get a daytime picture. The crisp early morning sunshine and a stroll down the riverside before breakfast a perfect start to the day.

Isfahan is also referred to as “half the world” for the diversity and beauty of its architecture. In the 17th century it rivalled cities such as London and Paris. It’s centrepiece is the UNESCO world heritage designated Nagash-e Jahan Square. Built in the 17th century it is a massive civic space that used to host public events such as polo matches for the entertainment of the royal family who would watch on from the elevated balcony of their palace.

The other focal points are the Imam mosque which housed a massive madrassa (school) and the intimate Sheik Lotfollah mosque. 

Persian food is varied and exquisite and our lunch here consisted of a smorgasboard of varied classics.

Dinner that night was a local classic Dizi. A slow cooked dish with lamb neck and onions, beans, chick peas and middle eastern spices. The service at the restaurant was quite theatrical and the meal didn’t disappoint. The only thing missing was a glass of red wine!

No mention of Persian food is complete without mentioning saffron. Produced from the stigma of the crocus flower. It is easily the most expensive spice on the planet and sells for $3000 per kg. I adore this seductive earthy spice and my description of it as “sex on a plate” has my fellow travellers chuckling out loud.

A wander through the bazaar at the northern end of the square and handicraft shopping fills a really satsifying and productive day.