In 1774 the master mariner Captain James Cook was the first westerner to land here. I greatly admire this man who explored and mapped all the way from Alaska to Antarctica and throughout the South Pacific, Australia and New Zealand. It was under his command that ship’s surgeon Joseph Banks discovered that limes prevented scurvy. Up until then it was a major killer of long voyage sailors. I reject the ignorant cancel culture woke warriors who deface and topple monuments to him.
Cook was a man of his time. He attempted landing here repeatedly before on his third attempt he managed to find a gap in the cliff faces that the island presents. Here his gifts of beads, nails and metal were met with a warrior’s spear. Nonetheless he managed to come ashore and raise the Union Jack and claim the island for the British Empire. His landing site is just down from the capitol, Alofi at a site called Opaahi. Walking down the wind has whipped the seas up to an inhospitable torrent and it is hard to imagine how a rowed wooden dinghy could make landfall.
We drive south for the first time and visit Anapala chasm where a short steep walk takes us down to the chasm with a freshwater pool. Historically this was the only source of fresh water for local tribes who had a long walk down to harvest water in empty coconut shells!
Togo chasm is next and the walk down is fascinating. Firstly we are enveloped with luxuriant jungle. Close to the sea the landscape is dominated by spikey limestone peaks. The descent to the gorge includes a steep long descent on a ladder. The gorge is a unique microcosm With limestone rocks atop a rare patch of pristine sand and palm trees. The diversity of this island does not fail to amaze.
The town of Liku on the eastern, windward side of the island reflects the fact that this less touristed side of Niue is also the more neglected. As we drive through at least half of the houses are derelict or burnt out. The road is pockmarked with epic potholes. The sea walk does, though take us down to rock pools and the reef through a pretty limestone cave.
The day ends with a rainforest walk along the Vinvini Forest road.
