Central Africa has long fascinated me. My first adventure in Africa was a 2 month backpacking journey in East Africa in 1987. Armed only with a Lonely Planet guide and an onwards ticket to my next job in UK, I travelled extensively through Zimbabwe, Zambia, Tanzania and Kenya. It was the latter LP guide with histories of all of Africa’s countries that ignited my interest in countries such as Congo, Central African Republic, Rwanda and Burundi. At that time they were administered by crazy, corrupt, violent dictators leaving them as “no go” zones. The region is still a hotbed of corrupt leaders, perhaps a bit less violent, militias and Islamic insurgents still with DFAT recommendations “Do not travel”. The difference now is that some travel countries offer trips there and this is what I am about to embark on.
I became an avid reader of books about the 19th century era of African exploration. In particular the source of the Nile was a particularly British obsession. The story of the famous Scottish missionary and doctor, David Livingstone had me enthralled. Books about the Congo River such a Heart of Darkness by Joseph Conrad and Henry Morton Stanley’s classic “Through the dark continent” had me wanting to replicate his journey sailing down the full length of the Congo. Those ambitions are now beyond reach as decrepitude in the failed state that is Congo has absorbed any of the long haul boats down this mighty River.
My main reason for booking this trip was to go through eastern DRC, an almost mythical land of massive lakes, jungle, mountains and gorillas. Sadly an unpublished rebel campaign throughout January and February has transformed our holiday itinerary into a war zone.
We have been rerouted to the other side of the border travelling along western Rwanda. I am sure it will not disappoint.