It is remarkable how the image of a languid, leaning coconut tree transports the viewer to impressions of white sand, deserted beaches, a relaxed paradise. While this photo is taken in Tuvalu this is not typical of this tiny island nation, formerly the “Ellice” in Gilbert and Ellice islands.
This is my “least visited” trip and Tuvalu the least visited country on earth has only around 4000 visitors per year. There is no tourist industry here at all. No travel companies no fridge magnets (much to the chagrin of my life partner) no souvenirs at all. The population here is 10,000 all up and the vibe of its capitol Funafuti is scruffy and down market. Accommodation is sparse and basic, eateries are few. The main island of Fongafale is a narrow affair arcing gracefully around one side of the 100 square kilometre lagoon.
Tuvalu has one other claim to fame. It is already a victim of rising sea levels. Metres of the beach have been lost to the lagoon. The highest land is 4.5 metres above sea level and is dwarfed by the ugly mountain of rubbish in the tip at the northern point of the island. Forecasts estimate that 50% of Funafuti will be underwater by 2050. The islanders I have spoken to are phlegmatic about the problem and possible solution. Despite the poor standard of living they all expressed a desire to stay in this, their homeland. Interestingly there is a massive project underway to dredge sand from the sea bed and deposit onto lost land as an attempt at reclamation. Hopefully this works. Plan B is relocating the population and this is already happening. Australia has agreed to take 400 Tuvalu and per year as permanent residents and the first tranche is this year. The ballot process to select them in 2025 was massively oversubscribed.
For our first day here the lodge owner organises a boat ride across the lagoon and we visit two of the 9 islands. Both uninhabited and both deserted island paradises.
The capitol is Funafuti and houses 6000 Tuvaluans. There are few shops here, shelves are half empty and the buildings have a ramshackle look about them which I find unusual having travelled through most of the South Pacific I find that the people may be poor but they are “house proud”. Their villages are neat and well maintained. Not so here. This island was occupied by the Americans in WW2 who built an airstrip as this is a skinny long island the airstrip bisects Funafuti becoming a playground and picnic area for locals except for 2 hours on 4 days a week when flights enter and leave from Fiji. A blast of the air raid siren clears the runway of locals.
