Mecca is the holiest site in Islam. The prophet Mohammed (Peace be upon him) was born here and in his adult life took to meditation. It is said that Allah revealed himself to him and bequeathed him the holy text we now know as the Koran. The religion we now know as Islam was born.
The prophet (PBUH) converted his family and a small band of followers but met with violent resistance in Mecca and was forced to flee to Medina where Islam took hold and resisted a number of attacks from Meccan forces. The prophet (PBUH) eventually prevailed and returned to Mecca where the Kaaba built by Ibrahim in antiquity and repurposed for pagan gods was repurposed as the holiest shrine in Islam.
Mecca is Haram (forbidden) for the non believer. Fortunately Medina, the second holiest site is not and it is replete with monuments and sites relating to the prophet’s (PBUH) life. It also houses his tomb.
The vibe here is very different. All around is a “sea” of Muslims every pilgrim/touristic site is crowded and we are the only non Muslims we see throughout our stay here. This is an international gathering. British accents abound. The people are all friendly and keen to engage. We even chat to a pale Swedish girl in a hijab here on pilgrimage.
The piece de resistance is the Masjid e Nabawi in the very centre of Medina. It is the resting place of the prophet (PBUH) and convergence point for the pilgrims. It and its massive grounds can accommodate 1 million devotees. Everything I have read before coming here said we could photograph from the outside so we have a hotel room with a view over the complex. When we actually approach the mosque I prepare to photograph from the gateway. The gateway is unguarded and we cautiously venture into the massive forecourt area. We are clearly tourists and not dressed in any Muslim garb. No one “bats an eyelid”. Magic! I absorb the atmosphere and take my fill of photos of this beautiful place. We do not, of course, attempt to go inside but I daresay that if we had bought a cheap outfit, on sale all over town here, we would have been able to wander in unchallenged and been able to take pictures. Nonetheless, I am a happy man!
