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Niue

Round island drive

We complete the ring road around Niue today. The scenery has been amazingly varied to date and today does not disappoint. Back east over the potholes to the nicely presented village of Lakepa and from there the sea walk to Puluhiki. Again the reef and rock pools are beautiful and varied.

Breakfast at Crazy Ugas
Main road at Alofi, the capitol
New Parliament looks more like a secondary school gym
Lakepa church
Puluhiki sea walk

Northward bound the roads are terrible and it suddenly seems that we have crossed some sort of dividing line between east and west and the potholes disappear and we are on smooth, newly laid road. A lot of this is courtesy of China who as throughout all of the South Pacific are building infrastructure in return for influence. Our destination is the Tavala Arches which, since their depiction on Niue stamps, has become emblematic of this country. The walk down is grueling over spiky limestone rocks where every step has to be carefully measured. Suddenly we are confronted with a small cave opening. Holding onto guiding ropes we make our way down and are afforded a magnificent view of the arch through a large opening in the cave. Every bit worth the effort getting here.

Talava Arches
Dinner at Vaiolama Cafe
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Niue

Windward

In 1774 the master mariner Captain James Cook was the first westerner to land here. I greatly admire this man who explored and mapped all the way from Alaska to Antarctica and throughout the South Pacific, Australia and New Zealand. It was under his command that ship’s surgeon Joseph Banks discovered that limes prevented scurvy. Up until then it was a major killer of long voyage sailors. I reject the ignorant cancel culture woke warriors who deface and topple monuments to him. 

Cook was a man of his time. He attempted landing here repeatedly before on his third attempt he managed to find a gap in the cliff faces that the island presents. Here his gifts of beads, nails and metal were met with a warrior’s spear. Nonetheless he managed to come ashore and raise the Union Jack and claim the island for the British Empire. His landing site is just down from the capitol, Alofi at a site called Opaahi. Walking down the wind has whipped the seas up to an inhospitable torrent and it is hard to imagine how a rowed wooden dinghy could make landfall.

Cooks landing is to the left
Old Parliament house
Brunch at the Crazy Uga cafe

We drive south for the first time and visit Anapala chasm where a short steep walk takes us down to the chasm with a freshwater pool. Historically this was the only source of fresh water for local tribes who had a long walk down to harvest water in empty coconut shells!

Hakupu village
Anapala Chasm

Togo chasm is next and the walk down is fascinating. Firstly we are enveloped with luxuriant jungle. Close to the sea the landscape is dominated by spikey limestone peaks. The descent to the gorge includes a steep long descent on a ladder. The gorge is a unique microcosm With limestone rocks atop a rare patch of pristine sand and palm trees. The diversity of this island does not fail to amaze.

Togo canyon

The town of Liku on the eastern, windward side of the island reflects the fact that this less touristed side of Niue is also the more neglected. As we drive through at least half of the houses are derelict or burnt out. The road is pockmarked with epic potholes. The sea walk does, though take us down to rock pools and the reef through a pretty limestone cave.

The day ends with a rainforest walk along the Vinvini Forest road.

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Niue

A whale of a time

Niue is a tiny country under the tourist radar. On arrival we figured that we would easily get onto a couple of whale swim tours. Imagine our dismay when on the first day, Monday, we discovered that most of the slots had been pre-booked. Niue Blue penciled us in for Thursday afternoon. We went into town Tuesday morning and another company, Explore Niue had a possible opening for Wednesday afternoon pending the cancellation of an existing group. Tuesday evening we are sitting on our balcony overlooking the ocean and we are treated to the deep groans of the humpbacks along with the sound of the fin slapping on the ocean and in an amazing coincidence receive the email to say that Wednesday was on!
Wednesday afternoon again had us at the wharf with our zodiac lowered down. We are a small group of 5 passengers and initially the signs are not great. Much time was spent sailing around looking for a whale. Suddenly, out of the blue, a sighting. When I saw the black ridge of whale sitting above the waves the excitement factor hit the roof. Jump over the edge of the boat and a short swim has us seemingly a few metres from this beautiful creature. Nonchalantly it gracefully descends to the depths. The vibe is one of calmness and peace that is at odds with the epic size of this mammal.


Another sighting a short swim away of the same whale has him/her swimming towards us eyeballing us before again descending into the depths. It is a magic experience and one that I was beginning to doubt would ever happen to me. I am a happy and lucky man.

The above pictures are mine. Below are the guide’s pictures.

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Niue

Deep sea fishing Niue

A black shadow emerges from the predawn water. It glides past us and emits a dismissive snort through its spout before peeling off to the starboard. It’s our first encounter with a humpback whale on our trip.
Prior to this in the predawn darkness we meet our charter and, only in Niue, The wharf is built high above the water line and boats have to be lowered down on a hoist. It is unique jumping onto a boat in mid air and then lowered down into the water below.


Our captain takes Anthony and myself 40 minutes out from the wharf and sets up the fishing lines. We are trawling for tuna initially. The daylight is just winning the competition with the night. The sky is a pretty cerise blue with crimson overtones and suddenly the rod to my right emits a zinging sound that something is on. Our captain,Ian, hands me the rod and it is an enjoyable few minutes contest dragging in a 4 kg Yellowfin tuna. Admittedly it was not so enjoyable for the fish! Half an hour later it is Anthony who pulls in a pretty blue skipjack tuna.


A bit later another hit had me briefly battling unsuccessfully with what was probably a shark. The fish was amazingly powerful and I was losing ground. Ian took over and brought him close to the boat before the presumed shark bit through the line.
I am a very intermittent fisherman but this takes second place to an amazing fishing trip off Noosa in 1996 where my rod seemed blessed and I pulled in a number of big fish including a 15kg dhufish.


Unfortunately the rest of the trip consisted of hours of tedium without a single nibble.The trip was bookended though back near the wharf when a massive humpback launched itself out of the sea perpendicularly with only its tail below the water crashing back into the sea and then repeating the pirouette. My camera was not to hand but Anthony captured on grainy video the end of the performance. For me this amazing close encounter is forever etched in my mind.

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Niue

A Niue country

“Where are you going this time doc?” My reply to my patients “Niue” invariable evoked furrowed brows and confused looks. It is situated 2400km north east of NZ between Tonga and Cook Islands.

Our Matavai resort
The capitol Alofi is initially underwhelming


This island country has a tiny population of just 2000 residents and relies on NZ for administration. Geologically it is unusual as it is a coral reef that has been thrust out of the sea by volcanic activity. As a result it has a narrow coral shelf and the ocean floor drops away dramatically a short distance from land.


It quickly becomes obvious that this is an island honeycombed by limestone caves and the coastal encounters are all about collapsed caves and rock pools. This is not a destination for beach lovers.

Tauei Puplu fort built in 1846 to protect Nukai Peniama who first brought Christianity to Niue

Uluvehi

Matapa chasm
Limu Pools
Magical Avaiki Cave and the rock pools around it
Sunset Makefu
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Niue

Tonga

In 2012 I backpacked through Tonga. I timed my visit to be during peak whale watching time. Off the island of Vava’u from July to October boats will take you out and you can not only view humpback whales but also don snorkel and swim with them.


I had 3 days there and paid to go out the first day I was there. A long full day on the water but no whales. The captain was unable to take me out the next day as he was fully booked so I booked for day three. Day three turned out to be a replay of day one. Much to my chagrin the captain informed me that the previous day they had multiple whale sightings!


I have done enough wildlife viewing to accept that nature can be fickle. I took it all philosophically but even before leaving Tonga I was researching future whale swim options. It was then that I discovered the tiny island of Niue that also does whale swims. In fact it was the only country other than Tonga that allowed this. I “bookmarked” it for a future adventure

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Taiwan 2024

Before Xi Xinping

Why Taiwan? To see it before Xi Xinping takes it over. Normally this post would open the blog for this trip. It is at the end for security reasons. When our lovely part time female doctor, Dana, who hails from Hong Kong heard that we were going there she anxiously cautioned against any possible statements or comments against the ruling CCP government. She is, of course, absolutely right. There are now strict laws in place there that could land me in prison for what I am writing now.

The nation of Taiwan evolved from the fleeing Chinese Kuomintang led by Chiang Kai Shek who was defeated by Mao Tse Tung in 1949. This “government in exile” has always been considered as illegitimate by the mainland Chinese who view Taiwan as theirs. It is an ongoing source of international tension and as recently as the week before our arrival the election of the new Taiwanese president staunchly opposed to mainland China provoked a macho display of power from China who conducted war games in the South China Sea for 2 days to demonstrate their displeasure.

Sadly it is only a matter of time before Xi moves on Taiwan. Not that he needed it he will be emboldened by the west’s weakness in supporting Ukraine against Putin’s aggression. I am glad that I have seen the country now and hope for good times ahead for their lovely people.

One last look at the crazy opulence of Macau
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Taiwan 2024

Sun Moon Lake

At the foothills of Taiwan’s central mountain range lies Sun Moon Lake. Surrounded by forested mountains with pretty temples dotted around this is our final stop before returning our rented car and flying home. Our accommodation in Yuchi proves to be a hassle to find as we drive through tiny alleyways inn Yuchi dodging pedestrians shopping at the night market being set up. Nonetheless the view of the lake from our balcony is hard to beat. Arriving late we find that most eateries close at 8pm and we have an underwhelming dinner at a small hole in the wall Chinese.

Sunset view from our balcony
Night view from our balcony


Depressingly, we awake to more heavy rain and low cloud. After a basic breakfast and the weather closing in we spend ages considering our options. It is tempting to pull the pin on the lake and head back to Taipei early. Just as we are about to pack up the rain stops and the clouds are lifting. Game back on! We have a lovely day driving around the lake enjoying its temples and the cable car. We have even found a nice spot for dinner and some wine. All is good with the world!

Ropeway
Nine frogs stack in Sun Moon Lake
Longfeng temple
Wenwu temple
Cien pagoda and view from top
Indigenous tribes
Market, Yuchi
Sunrise from our balcony
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Taiwan 2024

Alishan

Torrential rain buckets down as we pick up our car rental making the inspection and handover a soggy affair. We are leaving the east coast for the mountainous spine of Taiwan. The comfort of the 110 Kmph freeway gives way to a long steep climb through dense forest at a ridiculous speed limit of 30Kmph and multiple speed camera signs spooking me enough to comply. Misty cloud swirls and conceals the peaks above.

Tea plantations


This area was inhabited by indigenous tribes until the arrival of the Japanese in 1895. They set up a logging industry which was active until the Japanese defeat at the end of WW2. The then Formosa government set about repurposing the area for tourism and the logging trains became tourist trains. Surrounded by tea plantations the tiny village of Fenqihu was an important refuelling stop for the train and around the station the narrow little old street became a food stop for passengers. Popular was the Bento box which was my lunch for the day even if my life partner turned her nose up at the offering.

Fenqihu


Drizzle greeted us up the hill at Alishan Forest Park and with time and weather against us we could only enjoy a short walk through the massive trees.

Alishan
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Taiwan 2024

Historic Tainan

In 1987 we undertook a 2 month road trip through Europe. Our then 3 year old son would ask each morning “Are we going to a <C>athedral or an Abbey today? He was a happy traveller and trudged through the great churches of Europe without complaint. Fast forward almost 40 years and compare his mother’s attitude. Anguished moans of “not more temples”, “how many more temples” and “I am all templed out”.

Tainan is the oldest city in Taiwan established 400 years ago. The travel information shows multiple Taoist and Buddhist temples in the historic centre just a short walk from our hotel and from each other. My impression was that this must be a precinct of small alleyways, perhaps cobblestoned and replete with old town charm. Unfortunately that is not the case. The streets are ordinary 20th century affairs and the temples are all sandwiched between ordinary shops. While the insides are ornate and pretty the view from the outside is not.

The exception to this is our first port of call the Confucius Temple built in 1665 to offer lectures and cultivate intellectuals.

Confucius Temple
Dongyue Temple built in 1693 it enshrines the god of the netherworld
Chikhan tower built in 1653 was a Dutch outpost. Destroyed in an earthquake in the 18th century the present building was a rebuild in the 18th century.
Beiji temple
Martial temple
Tiangong temple
Koxinga shrine dedicated to the Chinaman who liberated Formosa from the Dutch
Anping fort built by the Dutch colonisers

When is too much temples not enough?