Category: Baltics 2025

I eschew cruises unless it is the only way to get to see a place. I am not into thousands of fellow cruises consuming massive amounts of smorgasbord food herded like cattle onto organised shore tours. I am all for independent exploration and the adventures that entails.

Norwegian fjords are one such area. On land road infrastructure is often suboptimal and the view from the sea is spectacular. My interest was further piqued when I researched the area and discovered that this route cannot be covered by mega cruise ships. The original route was licensed  to Hurtigruten in 1893 to provide vital transport and communication links to Norway’s rugged coastline. More recently a new player in Havila has entered the arena and we have paid to go on the Havila Polaris the newest ship in the fleet.

We are heading south from Kirkenes to Bergen and every spot on the map is a stop. Most are short stops to drop off ferry passengers and supplies. We cruise passengers number around 150 and are free to leave the ship on the longer stopovers which go from 1 to 3 hours.

We board our ship ahead of schedule to check in. The pretty little blond behind the counter gets our details and then serves up a surprise. She offers us an upgrade, not for free but she has the best suite on the ship available for a $2000 discount. It is still another $3000 extra charge. I turn to the right my eyes meet with my life partner and I knew there could only be one answer. It is the top floor lighthouse suite for us.

We go upstairs and open the door. As young people today say OMG! The suite is massive and luxurious with a separate living room, dining room, bedroom and bathroom with shower and bath. The coup de gras is the long balcony with our own private jacuzzi!

We finally leave Kirkenes as the arctic islets on either side pass us by.

There was a Bond movie that featured an ice hotel which piqued my curiosity at the time. Researching Norway I came across the Snow Hotel in Kirkenes which is where our Fjord cruise will depart. It’s a done deal and booked. It is the only ice hotel that operates year round by uniquely trapping huge mounds of snow at the end of autumn and trapping them under canvas until the next autumn snows.

Kirkenes is a dull little Arctic village with little to commend it. It is high in the Arctic circle uniquely placed only 14 km from the Russian border and just above the Finnish border as part of Norway it is an hour ahead of Finland despite being to the east of Helsinki an hour behind. There is no direct road link south to the capitol Oslo but there are various border crossings into Finland and the Russian Arctic port of Murmansk is only 3 hours drive away. This tiny outpost by virtue of its strategic position featured in WW2. It suffered 320 German bombing raids and was hardest struck by the Germans who were attempting to use the city as a base for invading Russia. Only 39 houses were left standing when invading Russian forces liberated it from Nazi control in
October 1944.

Back at the Snow Hotel we partake of the afternoon reindeer feeding under the guidance of the indigenous Sami whimsically named John Henry. Many of the Sami continue to lead a semi nomadic existence herding the reindeer and they are the only people allowed to own reindeer under Norwegian law.

Then there is the walk through the enclosure for their 160 Arctic Husky dogs who are quite boisterous when we arrive. Nonetheless they are friendly and all amenable for a pat. Our favourite is the golden coloured Kodiak who lies languidly on his kennel and loves a belly rub.

After dinner it is shots in the ice bar. Time accelerates and finally it is time to kit up for the sleep in our ice room. The temperature is -3 C and our beds as well as the room are all made of ice. There is a small vinyl mattress inlay and animal fur beneath our plush warm sleeping bags. We don our thermals a balaclava and warm woolly socks. I help my life partner to settle into her sleeping bag but the anxious look on her face tells the story. She confesses that she is unlikely to cope with this and may go upstairs and sleep on the couch in the lounge. She finally settles and I am amazed to still find her lying beside me when morning arrives. A truly amazing, once in a lifetime experience.

No I am not in Richmond, silly. I am in the capitol of Norway, Oslo. Norwegian poet Bjornsterne Bjornson described the city then as dangerous, cold and challenging symbolised by a tiger attacking a horse. Overtime the meaning evolved from one of danger to a symbol of the city’s dynamic, exciting and vibrant
character. Despite the nearest Tiger in the wild being half a planet away, standing proud outside the Central Railway station is a huge bronze statue of the city’s emblem, the tiger. Suzanne and I rub its nose for luck and head off to our spacious Central City apartment.

Oslo is a very walkable city and we drop our bags in our apartment at 4:30 pm and take advantage of sunshine and blue skies to catch the city sights close to our apartment.

The next morning more typical overcast conditions greet us as we continue our walking tour. First stop was the large, ultramodern opera house. Completed in 2007 the concept is to make it appear as though it arises out of the fjord. Constructed out of Italian white marble the design allows for the general public to walk up to the roof and enjoy views of Oslo.

Adjacent is the Munch museum, dedicated to Norway’s best known Edvard Munch. Everyone would be familiar with the “scream” series of paintings completed a century ago. Amazingly there are only 3 up for exhibition here and it is in a hall unlike anything I have ever seen. I did not know this but he painted these on paper and cardboard and they are deteriorating especially on exposure to light. So in this darkened room are 3 behind closed doors and only one opening at any time for viewing. Nonetheless these are
iconic artworks and not to be missed. He was also a prolific artist and his nudes and people pictures are fascinating. I am not an expert but his brushstrokes and use of light reminds me of the Impressionists a genre that I love.

We swing by the Nobel Peace prize hall in the drizzle and the rain intensifies for our visit to the Royal Palace to see a soggy changing of the guard ceremony.

I had pre-booked a fjord cruise in the Oslo fjord and despite the constant rain it was both scenic and enjoyable. We completed our Oslo stay with dinner at a Michelin starred restaurant for a six course degustation and wine pairing. Both were spectacular and worth the obscene bill at the end.

My observations on Norway and Oslo in particular are highly positive. The friendly customs officer at the airport engaged in small talk and with a broad smile said “Welcome to the Kingdom of Norway”. The airport is ultra quiet and there are only 2 international aircraft at the terminal. The transport system is seamless and efficient. The city is spotlessly clean and the streets are all quiet as this place is ultra “green” and all the vehicles are silent electrically powered. There is one downside, everything is ferociously expensive with prices varying from 25-50% higher than in Australia. It is one of those places where it is better not to do the conversion as you pay for things but survey the beating that the credit card
takes at the end of the trip. I am not planning to retire in the near future but the cost of this place will move that retirement back even further.