The Detouring Doctor

The Arctic circle is an imaginary line at 66N latitude. It marks the southernmost point where in the height of summer the sun never sets (midnight sun) and the height of winter experiences continuous darkness (polar night). Today we cross this line which is marked by another globe marker on Viking Island.

Midway along the coast is the city of Bronnoysund. It has the only church this far north built in 1830 out of stone, not timber.

Some 20 km out of town is Torghatten. This unique mountain has a hole through the middle of it!

The Lofoten islands is one of the most stunning places one can visit on a cruise with dramatic peaks, white sand beaches and charming fishing villages. This archipelago of 80 islands has also become a popular destination for land travellers renting RVs and camping and hiking. We stop at the picture postcard pretty village of Henningsvear close to sunset and the photography was nothing short of spectacular.

The finale is a lookout over the islands.

The next morning had us passing through the most scenic fjords of the cruise. Our ship having to carefully navigate narrow passages between increasingly mountainous walls. The first village we pass by over breakfast is the pretty Harstad.

We spend most of the day in the fjords and it is relaxing to settle down on board and let the panorama unfold before you off our balcony.

The village Stokmarknes is where Hurtigruten started operating from in 1893. They have built a museum here featuring one of their ships, the Finnmark, decommissioned in 1956. What is unique is that the whole vessel has been lifted out of the water onto a dock and the museum has been built around it. We spend a fun hour poking around cabins, lounges and crew areas 1956 style.

The coup de grace is entering the narrow Troll fjord with mountainous walls soraing either side and sea Eagles catching the breeze. Waterfalls cascade in. Truly magic!

Bright sunshine is unusual for these parts and it has truly set in. This enhances the amazing beauty of the islands and fjords around us as our electric powered ship glides silently over calm mirror seas.

Our afternoon after North Cape has no further stops until we arrived in beautiful and historic Tromso but here is the kicker, it is just before midnight!

There is an optional excursion, a midnight concert in Tromso Cathedral but I am not really interested in sitting through that I just want to get some photos outside the cathedral and wonder if I can get inside for a couple of sneaky pics.

My life partner is fast asleep when I slip out and off the ship in advance of the group. I walk past the statue of the famous polar explorer Roald Amundsen and four minutes later am at the brightly lit pretty yellow wooden cathedral. Arriving early I get pictures with no obstruction.

As I am about to leave the group arrives and I drift towards them. The queue of people parts to let me in so I went for it. No tickets for the event so I am in. The ushers offer me a program and a cushion to sit on which I try to refuse but ultimately take at his insistence. I walk past the no photo sign in the aisle and quickly click off some pictures as the people are getting seated. For a few seconds I mull over the possibility of just sitting down and enjoying a freebie. Honesty prevailed and I retreat and give back my cushion and the program and explain that I just wanted some pictures and had not paid for the concert. She tells me that the back door is locked but I can let myself out the side door.

I escape into the darkness and decide to wander down the main street which, as it is a Saturday night, is heaving with young people. Finally back to the quiet of our ship and a good night’s sleep.

A 5:45 departure invariably means waking in the dark. Not in the Norwegian summer where the sun rose for us at 4 am. We boarded the bus in Honningsvag in overcast conditions for the 40 minute drive to North Cape, the northernmost point of the European continent. The road wound up through treeless Arctic grassland past reindeer, and even Sami teepees.

Arriving at North Cape we were greeted by a grazing herd of reindeer which made for great photo opportunities.

In the wan morning sunshine we moved on. By the time we arrived at the large globe marking the spot the memorial had been commandeered by 5 Asian tourists who literally spent 30 minutes photographing each other in ridiculous poses. At one stage someone produced a Taiwanese flag and they waved it around with pride as if they were on top of Everest! Ultimately they tired of it all and others were able to take their photos. This is a place of rugged beauty.

We rejoined the ship at Hammerfest a 3 hour drive south through rugged mountains and pristine fjords under bright sunny skies.

On Christmas Eve 1617 a ferocious storm sprung up suddenly and forty local fishermen will killed at sea over the tiny town of Vardo. One of the eyewitnesses strangely described it as if it were loosened from a bag. Three years later the first trials of the largest Scandinavian witch hunts took place at the fortress.

These women were held responsible for the earlier storm by virtue of their alleged association withSatan. It was claimed that Satan marked them as his by biting the women between the fingers of their lefthands. Naturally there were salacious allegations of sexual union with the devil. When there was any question of guilt the accused woman was thrown into the sea. If she floated and lived this was proof that she was a witch. In all over 80 women were burned as witches here in this picturesque sea village and there is a monument to them.

The monument is on the other side of the island and according to Google maps 14 minutes from where we dock. We had just 40 minutes before the ship departed with or without us. Despite lots of anxiety from my life partner I set off at a brisk place and found time to soak up the spirit of the place. A unique memorial of man’s inhumanity against their fellow human being. I do not judge their ignorance from the
comfort of 21st century knowledge up against 17th century knowledge. What I cannot accept is their lack of compassion towards their fellow compatriots.

While I am racing to the witches memorial my resourceful life partner detours to the ancient fortress and snags these photos. We truly make a great pair!

I eschew cruises unless it is the only way to get to see a place. I am not into thousands of fellow cruises consuming massive amounts of smorgasbord food herded like cattle onto organised shore tours. I am all for independent exploration and the adventures that entails.

Norwegian fjords are one such area. On land road infrastructure is often suboptimal and the view from the sea is spectacular. My interest was further piqued when I researched the area and discovered that this route cannot be covered by mega cruise ships. The original route was licensed  to Hurtigruten in 1893 to provide vital transport and communication links to Norway’s rugged coastline. More recently a new player in Havila has entered the arena and we have paid to go on the Havila Polaris the newest ship in the fleet.

We are heading south from Kirkenes to Bergen and every spot on the map is a stop. Most are short stops to drop off ferry passengers and supplies. We cruise passengers number around 150 and are free to leave the ship on the longer stopovers which go from 1 to 3 hours.

We board our ship ahead of schedule to check in. The pretty little blond behind the counter gets our details and then serves up a surprise. She offers us an upgrade, not for free but she has the best suite on the ship available for a $2000 discount. It is still another $3000 extra charge. I turn to the right my eyes meet with my life partner and I knew there could only be one answer. It is the top floor lighthouse suite for us.

We go upstairs and open the door. As young people today say OMG! The suite is massive and luxurious with a separate living room, dining room, bedroom and bathroom with shower and bath. The coup de gras is the long balcony with our own private jacuzzi!

We finally leave Kirkenes as the arctic islets on either side pass us by.

There was a Bond movie that featured an ice hotel which piqued my curiosity at the time. Researching Norway I came across the Snow Hotel in Kirkenes which is where our Fjord cruise will depart. It’s a done deal and booked. It is the only ice hotel that operates year round by uniquely trapping huge mounds of snow at the end of autumn and trapping them under canvas until the next autumn snows.

Kirkenes is a dull little Arctic village with little to commend it. It is high in the Arctic circle uniquely placed only 14 km from the Russian border and just above the Finnish border as part of Norway it is an hour ahead of Finland despite being to the east of Helsinki an hour behind. There is no direct road link south to the capitol Oslo but there are various border crossings into Finland and the Russian Arctic port of Murmansk is only 3 hours drive away. This tiny outpost by virtue of its strategic position featured in WW2. It suffered 320 German bombing raids and was hardest struck by the Germans who were attempting to use the city as a base for invading Russia. Only 39 houses were left standing when invading Russian forces liberated it from Nazi control in
October 1944.

Back at the Snow Hotel we partake of the afternoon reindeer feeding under the guidance of the indigenous Sami whimsically named John Henry. Many of the Sami continue to lead a semi nomadic existence herding the reindeer and they are the only people allowed to own reindeer under Norwegian law.

Then there is the walk through the enclosure for their 160 Arctic Husky dogs who are quite boisterous when we arrive. Nonetheless they are friendly and all amenable for a pat. Our favourite is the golden coloured Kodiak who lies languidly on his kennel and loves a belly rub.

After dinner it is shots in the ice bar. Time accelerates and finally it is time to kit up for the sleep in our ice room. The temperature is -3 C and our beds as well as the room are all made of ice. There is a small vinyl mattress inlay and animal fur beneath our plush warm sleeping bags. We don our thermals a balaclava and warm woolly socks. I help my life partner to settle into her sleeping bag but the anxious look on her face tells the story. She confesses that she is unlikely to cope with this and may go upstairs and sleep on the couch in the lounge. She finally settles and I am amazed to still find her lying beside me when morning arrives. A truly amazing, once in a lifetime experience.

No I am not in Richmond, silly. I am in the capitol of Norway, Oslo. Norwegian poet Bjornsterne Bjornson described the city then as dangerous, cold and challenging symbolised by a tiger attacking a horse. Overtime the meaning evolved from one of danger to a symbol of the city’s dynamic, exciting and vibrant
character. Despite the nearest Tiger in the wild being half a planet away, standing proud outside the Central Railway station is a huge bronze statue of the city’s emblem, the tiger. Suzanne and I rub its nose for luck and head off to our spacious Central City apartment.

Oslo is a very walkable city and we drop our bags in our apartment at 4:30 pm and take advantage of sunshine and blue skies to catch the city sights close to our apartment.

The next morning more typical overcast conditions greet us as we continue our walking tour. First stop was the large, ultramodern opera house. Completed in 2007 the concept is to make it appear as though it arises out of the fjord. Constructed out of Italian white marble the design allows for the general public to walk up to the roof and enjoy views of Oslo.

Adjacent is the Munch museum, dedicated to Norway’s best known Edvard Munch. Everyone would be familiar with the “scream” series of paintings completed a century ago. Amazingly there are only 3 up for exhibition here and it is in a hall unlike anything I have ever seen. I did not know this but he painted these on paper and cardboard and they are deteriorating especially on exposure to light. So in this darkened room are 3 behind closed doors and only one opening at any time for viewing. Nonetheless these are
iconic artworks and not to be missed. He was also a prolific artist and his nudes and people pictures are fascinating. I am not an expert but his brushstrokes and use of light reminds me of the Impressionists a genre that I love.

We swing by the Nobel Peace prize hall in the drizzle and the rain intensifies for our visit to the Royal Palace to see a soggy changing of the guard ceremony.

I had pre-booked a fjord cruise in the Oslo fjord and despite the constant rain it was both scenic and enjoyable. We completed our Oslo stay with dinner at a Michelin starred restaurant for a six course degustation and wine pairing. Both were spectacular and worth the obscene bill at the end.

My observations on Norway and Oslo in particular are highly positive. The friendly customs officer at the airport engaged in small talk and with a broad smile said “Welcome to the Kingdom of Norway”. The airport is ultra quiet and there are only 2 international aircraft at the terminal. The transport system is seamless and efficient. The city is spotlessly clean and the streets are all quiet as this place is ultra “green” and all the vehicles are silent electrically powered. There is one downside, everything is ferociously expensive with prices varying from 25-50% higher than in Australia. It is one of those places where it is better not to do the conversion as you pay for things but survey the beating that the credit card
takes at the end of the trip. I am not planning to retire in the near future but the cost of this place will move that retirement back even further.