The holiest central Asian city in the Muslim world, Bukhara’s history in so many ways parallels that of Khiva. A thriving oasis in the desert and a key city on the famous Silk road it was destroyed in the 13th century by, you guessed it, Genghis Khan. Rebuilt it became one of the three main city states that ultimately served as an almost unconquerable buffer between the Russians in the north and the English in India in the south. This jostling that occurred over almost 3 centuries came to be known as “The Great Game” and cost countless thousands of lives both of the local people and Russians and British. In the end Bukhara was the penultimate khanate to succumb to the Russians.
Medressa
The earliest buildings here date from the 9th century and this is a city where the restoration work has been sensitively managed leaving the tourist with a more authentic appreciation of the history. This is less “theme park” and more original. As a holy city it was a centre of learning in the muslim world and there are no fewer than 100 medressas (Islamic schools) here, many beautifully ornate. This is a beautiful ancient city that rewards wandering through the bazaars and alleyways.
Bazaar with mosque domes and minaret in background
Kalon mosque
The architectural gem here is the Kalon mosque. Built in the 16th centuries its bright blue tiled domes are exquisite. Out front is the Kalon minaret which, built in 1127 was the tallest building in central Asia. 47 metres tall it was at that time the tallest building in central Asia and when Genghis saw it he was so dumbfounded that he ordered that it be spared.
For me, though, having studied the Great Game, the highlight here was the Khan’ s palace, known as the Ark and the prison there known as the Zindon. The rulers of medieval Bukhara were every bit as brutal as at Khiva. The ruler with the worst reputation was Nasrullah Khan. There is a portrait of him in the museum here and as I gaze into his large cruel eyes the Uzbek lady watching the room says “Butcher”. To ascend to the throne he had to kill no fewer than 28 members of his own family who were either ahead of him in lineage or who may have taken issue with his rule. Known even to his own people as “The Butcher” he was expert at playing Russian off against British. In 1838 a British envoy, soldier Charles Stoddart rode into Bukhara. Nasrulla arrested him for not dismounting his horse in the city and failing to bring gifts for him. He put him into jail in a 6.5 metre deep well. The only way in or out was by a 6 metre long rope and the prison guards refreshed what was know as the “bug pit” daily with scorpions, bugs and rats. A year later the British sent Arthur Connolly to negotiate his rescue and he joined Stoddart in the bug pit. Four years after Stoddart’s arrest the two were brought out to the courtyard outside the ark. They dug their own graves before being beheaded. While the graves are unmarked all of the rest of the history is here, visible and palpable. Despite the appearance of multiple European tour groups for the first time in my travels I am able to connect with the history of this beautiful and unique place.
Bug pit
Prison
Registan, in front of the Ark, where Connolly and Stoddart were beheaded.