The approach to Khorog, the capitol of the Pamiri region of Tajikistan sees the Panj river valley broaden as the river meanders lazily sinuous on the valley floor. It is a stark contrast to the frenetic white water action downstream. Green patches with affluent looking little villages dot the landscape on both sides of the river. Even the corresponding track on the Afghan side has graduated from goat track to one that would at least support a single vehicle.
Khorog itself is a thriving little town straddling the Gunt River, a tributary of the Panj. We spend a pleasant half day wandering through its attractions including the world’s second highest botanical gardens, parks and museum.
Leaving that afternoon, the third day of our trip we drive to the tiny village of Ishkashim, the easternmost intertional entry point into Afghanistan. As we drive we come face to face with magnificent 7000 metre snow capped peaks of the Hindu Kush in Afghanistan. We finally feel we are on our way!