Our guide, Yerlan lives in Astana. He is in his 50s and has a breathtaking level of knowledge in many areas especially the Russian nuclear program, nuclear physics, engineering and Soviet history. Unlike many who live in these countries who are happy to denounce the lost decades of communist rule he embraces them as part of their heritage that deserves respect. Similarly he is positive about the President Nazarbayev’s decision to build a city here.
After the dissolution of the USSR Nazarbayev was one of many former Soviet rulers who assumed dictatorial control of their former states in his case the newly independent Kazakhstan.He stared down internal opposition even from within his own ranks and pressed on with transforming this tiny bitterly cold town on the featureless northern steppes into a new capitol replacing Almaty. His dream was to build a resplendent new capitol with unique building design. He was a despot with a massive ego and I believe the purpose of the new Astana was to indulge in his delusions of grandeur. He stepped down from office in 2019 yielding to public pressure about emerging reports of corruption. His successor changed the name of Astana to Nur Sultan (Nazarbayev’s Christian name). It was changed back to Astana in 2022.
Nonetheless the result is nothing short of spectacular and this is a destination with true “wow” factor. Prepare to be dazzled! (Be warned there are a lot of photographs)
