We arrive in Semey at lunch time to an unseasonal heat of 37C. Located close to the border with Russia this city was established in 1717 by Tsar Peter the Great as a city taking an area of disparate group of nomads together to form a community and a conurbation. This was the era known here as the “Great Game” where Central Asia became a “chessboard” for the Russians Empire and the British Empire. The latter grown more powerful with its control of greater India.
Fast forward to today and the initial impression is one of scruffiness. This is a very untouristed part of an untouristed country. Now it is a base for the occasional tourist who wants to explore the 20th century raison d’etre for this area namely the USSR atomic/nuclear research program.
We venture out in the old town. A few older buildings remain but it is nothing like other European style old towns.
As a first year med student I got hooked on reading the classics on public transport into and out of university. One of my favourites was Crime and Punishment by Fyodor Dostoyevsky. I literally could not put it down! I am really happy to explore the Dostoyevsky museum and the house where he lived here. At age 28 the recently graduated Dostoyevsky joined a literary group which was arrested on suspicion of being critical to the Tsar Nicholas 1. He was sentenced to death and the sentence commuted at the last moment before the firing squad to 4 years in a Siberian prison followed by 5 years of military service. The latter was to be served here in Semey hence the connection.
The afternoon finishes with a dose of Abai. His name is translated as Abay Kunanbayev and one I have heard of in passing. This 19th century Kazakh has an amazing body of work as an author, composer and philosopher. He was born and raised here. There is a beautiful museum and concert hall dedicated to him.
We are back here on the last day and find parts of the city that are green leafy and actually quite pleasant. The first stop is the Stronger than death monument which was installed in remembrance of the devastating consequences of nuclear testing near here (Semipalatinsk between 1949 and 1989).
Then it’s off to the war memorial park and eternal flame commemorates war dead from WW2.
Finally a little unassuming green area in town is the relocated home to a giant Lenin statue which once dominated a main square and is now seemingly an embarrassment tucked away with a whole lot of trees partially obscuring visual access to him.
